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2011.11.08 8a網站披載了一則訊息
Video evidence and confirmation of Durif's 9a
Grimper reports in the latest issue that they have seen a video, with some cuts, of Charlotte Durif's 9a ascent of 3P, making them believe her.
"We could see Charlotte do all the moves on the hard part of the route, and at ease in the 2 crux sections, moreover, using her own methods. Given the style of the route and the rest available for recovery before the hard section of the route, it is not hard to believe the validity of this incredible performance.
However, we are continuing our investigations to know the truth about what we can already call "the Durif affair", an investigation will be published in the next issue."
What they are talking about is that the French website Kairn have stopped publishing Durif ascents and they have called the Durif's for liars. This rumour Kairn have spread around and in fact 8a was one of the very few Euro website who backed up her and published the 9a ascent, she reported to have done on her 21 year birthday.
(c) Anna Piunova from WC 2010 where Charlotte won. A couple of weeks later she made some amazing onsights up to 8c which also was questioned by the media.
從〈climbing〉雜誌的短訊內容Charlotte Durif Redpoints 5.14d in France看來確實有點可疑。
這種可疑來自於比較最近專訪sasha ascent 9A的文章Sasha DiGiulian, the Pure Imagination 9a interview
不過最可疑的是8a網站一文中所提到的影片,並未發表。由於這是事關第二個第三個女姓完攀9a的路線,直接關係到贊助,雖然Grimper對"the Durif affair"做了澄清,整個事件看起來仍是真假難辨疑雲重重。
反觀台灣這種紀錄,因為沒有贊助的問題,事情就顯得單純多了。
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